The Cities of India – Bori Bandar

There’s something rather magical about South Bombay; it has a charm to it which is often unmatched. It is rustic, historical, and it remains Bombay while the rest of the city embraces the Mumbai vibes. I repeat, South Bombay remains special to me because it is something that I remember from my childhood; there’s nostalgia to it, but I will try my best to not tap into it (no promises).

Since the turn of the year, an involuntary action of mine is to board the local from Kanjurmarg and head to CSMT. It is a rather simple journey; perhaps it is my luck that I often do get a seat, but the beauty of the Mumbai local is truly experienced only if you stand by the door, the breeze (sometimes cold, warm, and even scathing) embracing you, the world moving at a rapid pace. In this hurry, there’s one thing that I ensure I don’t miss though: a beautiful sliver-white flowered tree in the middle of a graveyard. The symbolism of the tree fascinates me; it is life in the middle of death, a sight of serenity in a place often known for grieving.

“Life is cyclic” – a philosophy (even if naive) I truly do believe, and I think it is fitting that as I restart this website, I have started rambling about the Mumbai Local, much like the very first post. But I think the journey has been stalled for too long now; let’s actually reach the destination, CSMT! Having moved back to Mumbai only recently, I often slip back to calling this magnificent structure VT, as I did back in the day. While the renaming preceded my birth by a few years, VT was what my dad was familiar with, and it stuck with me as I grew up.

But there was a name before VT too, something that perhaps is lost now. Bori Bandar, which roughly translates to the sack port. I assure you, I too had a chuckle when I heard the name the very first time. But there’s something fascinating about this town that seems to be lost in the “hurry-burry” of Mumbai. The men who now walk the streets of South Bombay, often in fascination today, have probably never thought of this same Fort Area as once being a lively dock, the locals that I romanticize were conceptualized for the dock workers who wanted to reach this exact place, Bori Bandar.

As I stand amidst the happening streets of modern Mumbai, surrounded by towering skyscrapers (talking about you Antilia) and luxury boutiques, I can’t help but contrast this affluent scene with the humble beginnings of Bori Bander. While Bori Bander was once a thriving dockyard, teeming with activity and the lifeblood of trade, today’s Mumbai paints a starkly different picture of prosperity and opulence. The transformation from a simple port town to a global financial hub reflects the ever-changing landscape of this dynamic city.

In the heart of Mumbai’s affluent neighborhoods, where the elite reside in lavish mansions and drive luxury cars, it’s easy to forget the humble origins of Bori Bander. The streets are lined with designer stores and upscale restaurants, a far cry from the humble shops and bustling markets that once defined the area. Yet, amidst the glamour, traces of Mumbai’s rich history can still be found for those willing to look beyond the surface.

Mumbai, for me still remains a city of two halves (like most cities are). It is a city of the riches and poor, equally of both. As I walk through the streets not too far from CSMT / VT / Bori Bander, I can see people trying to make their ends meet by selling the cheapest clothes on the streets whereas only a few meters away there’s a shooting happening for a movie that I still can’t remember the name of. Perhaps that is the beauty of this city, it is both, and it is not ashamed to be both! It is Mumbai and yet it is Bori Bander.

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